Friday, December 22, 2017

Pretend Play Diaper Bag Tutorial

Friday, December 22, 2017
This post originally appeared on the Riley Blake Designs blog.  The fabric was provided by Riley Blake Designs, but the pattern is my original design. If you would like the downloadable PDF version you can purchase it for $3 in my Etsy shop here.

My two year old daughter loves to play with her baby dolls.  She rocks them and feeds them and is always changing their diapers.  So, I decided that this Christmas, she needed a diaper bag under the tree, to hold all her baby's things and really help her feel like the mommy.  And if you have a little girl on your list who loves playing at being the mommy too, you'll love today's tutorial for this Pretend play diaper bag.  But even if you don't have a girl, this bag would be a wonderful tote for any boy to haul all his goodies around, or even to bring over to Grandma's for a sleepover. I have also designed some accessories for this diaper bag that you can find over on Diary of a Quilter's blog here. There is also a PDF version of the accessories tutorial version available in my Etsy shop.

Let's get to making one.

** Please read all directions before beginning.

The fabric used in this tutorial is from the Snapshots line.
You will need 1/2 yard fabric for the exterior of the bag- it is best if you use a non- directional fabric.
1/2 yard fabric for interior and flaps
1-2 fat quarters (optional) for pockets
1/2 yard fusible fleece (40" wide)
1/2 yard of 1/4" or 1/2" elastic
sewing supplies

Cutting the Fabric:
From your exterior fabric you will need:
1- 14" X 18" (exterior of bag)
1- 6" X 28" (strap)
1- 14" X 13" (interior pocket) *
From your interior fabric you will need:
1- 14" X 18" (interior of bag)
2- 11" X 10" (flap)
1- 7" X 10" (side pocket) *

*unless you purchased additional fat quarters for interest, then cut the pocket pieces out of them.

Cutting Fusible Fleece:

Cut in order:
2- 14" X 18"
1- 11" X 10"
1 1/4" X 27"- when you cut your fleece, you will not have a piece that is 27" in length, so just cut 2 pieces at 1 1/4" and over lap them when you fuse them into the strap.

Cut your elastic into 1- 10" piece and 1- 3" piece

Go to your ironing board. :)

Following the manufacturers instructions fuse the fleece to the wrong side of the exterior and interior bag pieces.  Fuse fleece to the wrong side of one of the flap pieces.  Take your strap piece, fold in half along the length and press.  Open up the strap and bring the sides into the newly pressed center crease- press.  Open up one side and lay the fleece along one side of the center crease, overlapping the pieces in the center, with the fusible side of the fleece (the bumpy side) toward the fabric.  Fold the side back down and refold the piece along the center crease- press to fuse the fleece to the fabric.

Preparing the pieces:
 *all seam allowances are 1/2"

On the wrong side of the flap piece without the fleece, use a lid or mug to round the two bottom corners.  Pin the piece to the second flap piece, wrong sides together.  Cut along the marked lines to round both pieces.  Sew around the three sides touching the rounded corners.  Clip around the rounded corners. *one tip is to use pinking shears on the curves, just be sure to not clip your threads.  Turn right side out and press.
Top stitch around the three sewn sides of the flap and along both sides of the strap.  Set these two pieces aside.

1. Press your pocket pieces in half wrong sides together- for the outside pocket, fold in half along the 10" side to create a piece that is 5" X 7", for the interior pocket fold along the 13" side to create a piece that is 14" X 6 1/2".  Starting 1/2" from the folded edge sew around all three raw sides, leaving and opening for turning- note the arrows in the picture- and stopping 1/2" from the folded edge on the opposite side.  Clip the two corners opposite the folded edge.
2.  Turn right side out and press.  Sew along the top of the pocket at 1/2" to create a channel for the elastic.  Use a safety pin to thread the elastic into the channel.
3.  Pull the elastic until the free end is barely inside the channel (see picture) sew across this end of elastic so it doesn't pull out of the pocket- back stitch to secure the elastic.
4.  Pull the safety pin end of the elastic out of the channel, gathering the fabric at the top of the pocket.  Remove the safety pin and carefully pull the elastic back into the channel until the end is barely inside the channel as in Step 3.  Sew across the second side of the elastic to secure it into place.  Do this for both the side pocket and the inside pocket.

Bag Assembly:
1.  Take your exterior bag piece and fold in half along the length to create a piece that is 9" X 14".  Make a mark 1 1/2" from the fold that is 2" long, finish the rectangle by drawing a line that is 1 1/2" long 2" in from the side.  Repeat on the second side of the folded edge.  Cut out the rectangles.  Sew up one side.
2.  Turn the exterior bag piece right side out.  Center the side pocket over the seam you just sewed, 2" from the top of the bag.  Pin the top of the pocket in place.  Create pleats in the bottom of the pocket so the sides are perpendicular to the top of the pocket- pin in place.  Sew around all three sides of the pocket.  Turn the bag wrong side out again and sew up the second side.
3.  We are going to create the boxed bottom of the bag.  Line up the side seam with the bottom crease.  This will create a straight line out of the rectangle we cut out earlier.  Sew along this line.  Repeat for both sides.
4.  Turn bag right side out, pull on the side seams to create a flat piece on top.  Center the flap along the back of the bag- it should be about 1 1/2" from the side seam to the edge of the flap.  Baste stitch in place.  Center the ends of the strap on each side seam, pin in place making sure the strap is not twisted.  Baste into place.

Create inside pocket:
Line up the sides of the pocket 1 1/2" down from the top of the lining piece and 2" in from the sides- pin into place.  Create pleats in the bottom of the pockets to gather the extra material, making sure the sides are perpendicular to the top of the pocket- use the picture as a guide.  The pleats will be approx. 1/4" deep.  Sew around the three sides of the pocket.  Mark the center of the pocket- 5" in from the side- sew along this line to create two pockets.
Repeat steps 1. and 3. from the exterior bag assembly to cut out the rectangle and box the bottom of the bag.
Place the exterior of the bag inside the interior of the bag.  Make sure the flap of the bag is on the same side as the inside pocket.  You can see from the picture that you will have to fold and scrunch the fabric to get the tops of the bag pieces to line up.  (you will also see from this picture that I did not  baste the flap or straps into place- what can I say, I'm a rebel)  Start at the side seams and line them up and begin to pin the tops of the bag together- keeping everything lined up.  Sew around the top of the bag- leaving an opening for turning- it's easier if the opening is NOT on the side with the flap.  Turn the bag right side out through the opening.  Push all of the corners out well.  Push the inside of the bag into the exterior of the bag.  Press the top seam, folding over the opening left for turning.  Top stitch the top seam of the bag, making sure to close the opening.  Press the bag to remove any creases from turning the bag.
 Step back and watch your little one enjoy their new tote!
I purposely left the bag pretty simple, it is for a 2 year old after all, but if you want to add extra embellishments- like this fun scrunched flower- or buttons or ric rac- go right ahead- just do so before you sew the two flap pieces together.  I hope you, and your little ones, enjoy your new diaper bags.

Tuesday, December 5, 2017

Sewing Machine Mini Quilt

Tuesday, December 5, 2017
mini quilt featuring sewing machine
The fabric for this project was provided to me by Riley Blake Designs. The project and opinions are my own.

You probably don't know this, but I have been pulled out of depression twice in the last two years by sewing. Through being creative, putting things together in a unique fun way, and taking time to do something just for me, I have found my happiness any joy renewed. So creating, and specifically sewing, have a very special place in my heart and in my life. When I was given the opportunity to participate in the blog tour for this new Happiness is Handmade line by Lori Whitlock, I jumped at the chance. The colors, theme and feel of this line just speaks right to my heart. I've been wanting to make some new mini quilts for a while now and this seemed like the perfect time to start.
I started with this sewing machine block from The Fat Quarter shop. It was a good size and I loved the shape. I had a blast putting it together. *Now, before we go any further, I need to add a disclaimer that I am a novice quilter. I have not done many quilts and my technique is sketchy at best. But, I'm learning, I forgive myself as I go for not being great at it, and I enjoy the process enough to do it anyway. So, don't zoom in- okay?
I added a small border under the sewing machine and then added two rows of hearts to the top and bottom. I purposely offset the two rows of hearts to give the quilt just a bit of movement. I really love how it turned out.
If you are interested in making this exact mini yourself, this heart tutorial by Cluck Cluck, Sew is the process I used to create my hearts. I cut the color rectangles at 2 1/4" X 3 1/2", the tops of the hearts were created with 1" squares and the bottom of the heart used 2 1/4" squares. They are a bit shorter than the ones in the tutorial, but I like this shape a little better. The border between the sewing machine and the heart row is 1 1/2" X 16 1/2" and the borders on the heart row were 1 1/2" X 3 1/2" and 2" X 3 1/2". If there are any questions, please let me know and I can write it up a bit clearer. :)
Happiness for me is indeed creating handmade and I'm so happy I will have a bit of this line hanging out with me for a long time in my sewing space.
Happy creating everyone!

Monday, December 4, 2017

Shine Bright Tote tutorial

Monday, December 4, 2017
Shine Bright fabric tote
The fabric for this post was provided by Riley Blake Designs, the project and opinions are my own.

I absolutely loved this fabric and the message the ladies from Simple Simon and Company incorporated into it. They dedicated this line to their daughters and wanted them to know what they hope for and think of the sweet girls in their lives. I want my girls to know that I think the same things about them, so I knew I wanted to make something they would see and use often. I decided on a tote bag that they could use to hold their coloring supplies, or even use for library books if they want. It's a simple bag, made a bit more fun with the addition of a pleated ruffle on the front.
Shine Bright fabric totes
I made two totes for a couple of my daughters, so in the tutorial I will be alternating between them.

Shine Bright Tote Tutorial
This pattern is fat quarter friendly. You will need one for the exterior and one for the lining. If you want to add additional interest or colors, you will want a few more fabrics.

  • from lining fabric cut 2- 11" X 13" rectangles
  • from exterior fabric cut 1- 11" X 13" rectangle
  • from exterior fabric cut 1- 3" X 11" rectangle
  • from exterior fabric cut 1- 10 1/2" X 11" rectangle
  • cut one 3 1/2" X 20" strip for ruffle
  • cut one 4" X WOF strip for handles (if using Fat Quarters, cut 2 4"X 21" strips)
  • Cut 2-  3 1/2" X 11" strips for accent pieces on bottom of tote (optional- skip if using a dark color for main exterior fabric)
  • From Fusible Fleece cut 2- 10 1/2" X 12 1/2" rectangles
  • from Fusible Fleece cut 1- 7/8" X 42" strip (or 2- 7/8" X 21" strips if using fat quarters)
 Take the 3 1/2" X 20" ruffle piece and press in half along the length.
Attach strip to the top of the 10 1/2" X 11" main exterior piece, creating pleats as you go. Use a scant 1/4" seam allowance. *tip: if you are concerned about the pleats being evenly distributed along the tote, use pins to put the pleats in first.
Then add the 3" X 11" piece on top of the ruffle- this time use a full 1/4" seam allowance.
Press small piece up and away from ruffle.
Fuse the fleece to the exterior front and back pieces.
Measure 3" up from bottom of each of the exterior pieces and pin the 3 1/2" X 11" accent piece in place.
Stitch down using 1/4" s.a.
Press the accent piece down toward the bottom of the exterior pieces.
Add top stitching above the ruffle, at the top of the ruffle and on the top of both bottom accent pieces.
Take the lining pieces and place them right sides together.
Sew around the two sides and bottom using 1/4" s.a.- Leave a 3-4" opening on bottom seam!!
Mark a 3/4" square on the two bottom corners and cut out using scissors.
Repeat all steps for the exterior of the bag except DO NOT leave an opening on the bottom seam.
Line up the side and bottom seams, pulling the cut out square into a straight line. Pin the seams together.
Sew along the straight line you created using a 1/4" s.a.
Repeat for both lining and exterior of the bag.
Turn the exterior of the bag right side out.
Take your handle strip and press in half along the length.
Open up that seam and press the outer edges of the strip so they line up with the center pressed line.
Place the fusible fleece along the center pressed line to one side or the other.
Fold the outsides back into the center and then fold again along the center fold- this should capture the long raw edges inside the strap.
Press to fuse the fleece to the fabric.
Top stitch along both sides of the strip to create the handles
Cut long strip in half (if using a WOF cut)
Pin handles to front and back of bag exterior.
Line up the outer edge of the handles 2 1/4" in from the side seams.
Pin or baste in place
Slide the exterior of the bag inside of the lining.
Make sure side seams nestle- that they are going in opposite directions.
Line up the side seams and top raw edge of the lining and exterior of bag.
Pin around the entire top opening of bag.
Sew around top of bag using 1/4" seam allowance.
Pull the exterior of the bag through the opening in the bottom of the lining, turn entire bag right side out.
Stitch the opening of lining closed.
Push the lining into the exterior of the bag.
Press the top seam and top stitch around the opening of the tote.
Now your tote is finished! All that is left is to fill it with goodies- like coloring books, pencils and a matching zipper pouch and you have a delightful gift perfect for birthdays, Christmas or any occasion!
As always, if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask!

Wednesday, November 8, 2017

Ruffle Notebook Cover Tutorial

Wednesday, November 8, 2017
*I was given fabric to participate in the This and That blog tour. All opinions and projects are my own.
Notebook cover with ruffle accent
I love the florals in the main print of the This and That fabric line, but what I love even more, is the accent of black that runs throughout this line. It's such a fun contrast to the bright colors. That element of contrast is what led me to create this ruffle notebook cover. The pleated ruffle on the front is a fun element, made even more fun with the contrast of the black fabric. This tutorial will show you how to create your own, so that you can dress up your composition notebooks for doodling, bullet journaling or keeping track of your sewing projects, which is what I use mine for!
Ruffle Notebook Cover
4 fat quarters
1/3 yard for lining
1/3 yard for front accent (less if not directional)
1/3 yard for back of cover
2 1/2" strip of accent fabric, or 1" wide ribbon

decorative elastic if desired for closure

ruffle notebook cover cutting requirements

1-10 1/2" X 16"  Lining fabric (stripe)
3- 5" X 10 1/2" front feature fabric and cover flaps (floral)
1- 2 1/2" X 10 1/2" front feature fabric (floral)
1- 2 1/2" X 20" strip ruffle fabric (black)
1- 9 1/2" X 10 1/2" back cover fabric (red)

pleated ruffle to front accent piece of cover
  • Press ruffle strip in half along the length
  • line up raw edges of the ruffle strip with the right side of the 5" front accent piece. Pin pleats into the accent strip so that it covers the length of the 10 1/2" side.
  • baste into place 
  • Place 2 1/2" front accent piece on top of ruffle, right side down, lining up right sides. 
  • Sew in place using 1/4" seam allowance
ruffle notebook front cover assembly
  •  press the ruffle toward the 2 1/2" accent piece
  • top stitch on both sides of the seam a scant 1/8"
  • line up the left side of the accent piece with the right side of the back cover piece- right sides together
  • Sew the accent piece to the back, using 1/4" seam allowance
  • press toward the darker piece (in this case, the red side)
  • add top stitching if desired
add elastic for closure

  • if using decorative elastic for closure, line up the elastic 2 1/4" from left edge of front cover
  • pin in place
put the notebook cover together
  •  press the cover flap pieces in half along the length (5" X 10 1/2" pieces pressed to create 2 1/2" X 10 1/2" pieces)
  • line up raw edges of flap pieces with both sides of the notebook cover front. *tip: pay attention to the direction of the print on the fabrics at this point
  • place the cover lining right side down on top of the cover front.
  • pin in place
  • Sew around the entire cover using a 1/4" seam allowance, leaving a 3-4" opening on the bottom for turning
  • clip all four corners and turn right side out
  • press
  • stitch opening in bottom closed
tutorial to create ruffle notebook cover
 Slide your composition notebook into the flaps and bring the elastic around to the front to keep closed.
ruffle accent cover for composition notebook
Now you have a beautiful new cover for your composition notebook! I use mine all the time to keep track of the projects I am making, adjustments to patterns and ideas for future projects. I LOVE having one in my sewing room (or two or three!!).

Tuesday, October 24, 2017

Exposed lace zipper sleeping bag tutorial

Tuesday, October 24, 2017
tutorial to sew a sleeping bag for 18" dolls
*I was given fabric to participate in the Safari Party blog hop. All opinions and projects are my own.

Whenever I make a project, I always hope that it will do two things- show off the fabrics I love, and be something useful, practical or fun. When I saw this Safari Party fabric from Melissa Mortenson for Riley Blake I knew immediately what I wanted to create with it- this fun cozy sleeping bag for my daughters and their 18" dolls.  The hardest part was figuring out how to get it come together. I wanted it to have the feel of a real sleeping bag, with a zipper, but I also didn't want to have to use a separating zipper. I came up with a fun compromise- using these darling lace zippers I have loved forever, but never had a project to use them on, until now!
I love that the lace zippers add a bit of fun to an already darling project thanks to such cute fabrics! Read on for the tutorial:

Exposed lace zipper sleeping bag:

2- 21"X10" rectangles for back (sleeping bag back, and lining)
2- 16"X10" rectangles for front. (I wanted a patchwork look for the fronts on mine, so I pieced different fabrics together, feel free to use a solid piece of fabric)
1- 21"X 10" and 1- 16"X9 1/2" rectangles of fusible fleece
1- 12" lace zipper

Sew the front 16" rectangle to the 21" rectangle you want for the back of the sleeping bag. Line them up at the bottom of the 21" rectangle with right sides together and with the front (shorter) piece on top, sew on the RIGHT SIDE. Press the front of the sleeping bag to the side.
Sew the lining 16" rectangle to the 21" rectangle that will be the lining back (you will see this fabric when the sleeping bag is zipped closed). Line them up right sides together and with the shorter piece on top sew the LEFT SIDE. Press the front to the side.
*Sorry for the lack of pictures on the next steps!
Fuse the fleece to the two pieces of the lining that are already sewn together. Place the outside and lining pieces on top of each other right sides together and sew around using a 1/4" seam allowance, leaving a 2-3" opening on the bottom for turning. Clip all corners and clip a "V" out of the corner where the short side meets the long side. Turn right side out and press. Add a few lines of quilting if desired.

Attach the zipper:
Line the zipper up with the top of the sleeping bag front. Make sure you leave a scant 1/4" from the zipper teeth to the fabric to make it easier to slide the pull. Fold under the zipper ends to create a 45 degree angle and hide the raw edges of the zipper. Stitch the zipper in place. I ran two lines of stitching, one 1/4" away from the zipper teeth and one on the scalloped edge of the zipper to hold it down.
To attach the second side of the zipper you will need to fold the sleeping bag so the sides line up. Make sure the bottom corners are level and zip up the zipper so it lines up. Carefully pin the zipper to the back of the sleeping bag, again making sure to leave a scant 1/4" from the teeth to the fabric so it will pull open easily.  It takes a bit of patience for this part, so just go slowly and make sure everything is lined up. When you are done, fold under the zipper ends again and sew down the same as you did the front. You will need to unzip the zipper to get it all sewn down and it will involve some serious manipulation of the sleeping bag to make sure everything stays in place, but it can be done and you will make it!! :)

You can finish the bottom in one of two ways. On the blue sleeping bag, I turned it inside out and used my machine to edge stitch from the bottom of the zipper, around the corner to the center fold. It makes it a bit narrower at the bottom, but it was fast and easy. On the pink sleeping bag I used a needle and thread and ladder stitched it closed, a much more precise, but time consuming option. Either way you choose, make sure to close the hole in the bottom you left for turning.
The final step is to give it to your doll owner of choice and see them squeal in delight!
Have fun sewing and let me know if you have any questions!

Sunday, October 15, 2017

Mini Banner Flags

Sunday, October 15, 2017
Mini Banner sewing tutorial
 I love making mini banners for accent pieces in my decor. They use a fairly small amount of fabric, can be customized for any style and they are a quick and satisfying project for an afternoon. Today I'm going to share with you the measurements and methods I use to make these mini banner flags.
make ornaments with mini banner flags

You can hang them individually with dowels and twine. They  make a great addition to a gallery wall. Or, use them as ornaments on a seasonal tree. **If you would like to embellish your banners with these badges, you can find the patterns Here on my contributor post for The Polka Dot Chair.
make a bunting with mini banner flags
Or, string them together to make a bunting.
Are you sold? Ready to make some?
Mini Banner Flag
Fabric- fat quarters or scraps, if buying yardage I recommend 1/3 yard for directional prints, 1/4 yard for non directional prints.
Finishing supplies: twine or ribbon for stringing, dowels and twine for individual hanging.
Felt for embellishments if desired.

cutting instructions for mini banners
 Cut a rectangle of fabric 4" wide by 10".
Fold in half along the length to create a 5" X 4" rectangle.
Fold in half again along the width to create a 5" X  2" rectangle. Now you will cut the angle to create the banner. Position your small rectangle so the fold on the short side is at the top.
 If you want one center point on the bottom:
  • measure up 1" on the side OPPOSITE the fold 
  • draw a line from that point to the opposite corner on the bottom.
  • Cut along that line
If you want two points on the sides on the bottom:
  • measure up 1" on the side WITH the fold 
  • draw a line from that point to the opposite corner on the bottom
  • cut along that line 
For both:
*If you want to embellish the flags, you can do it either before or after you sew the sides of the banner together. I like to do it after so that I can use more dimensional embellishments without it making it harder to sew the flags together, but if you don't want to see the stitching on the back, you may want to do it before.
  • Unfold the center fold to go back to your 5" X 4" rectangle, now with angles at the bottom.
  • Starting 1/2" down from the top fold, start sewing around the flag, using a 1/4" seam allowance.
  • Once you have sewn down 1 side and the bottom (the part with the angles) sew up the last side, leaving a 2" opening for turning before finishing the side 1/2" from the top.
  • Clip the bottom angles
  • turn right side out and press
  • topstitch around the flag, leaving 1/2" opening from top on both sides to create a channel for stringing or dowels, making sure to close the opening left for turning.
  • Repeat for as many flags as you'd like
 If you are making individual banners, cut your dowel down to 4 1/2" long and string through top channel on flag. Tie twine or ribbon on both sides of dowel to create hanger.
If you are making a bunting, arrange the flags in your desired order then string onto twine or ribbon.
sew mini bunting for seasonal decor
Let me know if you have any questions!

Thursday, October 12, 2017

Spider Swarm Pillow

Thursday, October 12, 2017
This is a sponsored post. I was given a Cricut EasyPress to use and review. All opinions and projects are my own.
Use EasyPress to create fun halloween decoration

I love having the ability to customize my projects and Iron on is such a fun way to do it. My problem with using iron on is getting it to adhere well to my projects. It always seemed to lift and peel. I have discovered that the problem wasn't the vinyl I was using- it was me. Not only was I using an iron, I wasn't heating the vinyl nearly long enough. Enter the EasyPress. The large heating surface heats evenly across the entire plate and a built in timer makes sure I don't stop before it's ready. It's so easy now to create projects that use iron on vinyl with confidence. Behold: The Spider Swarm pillow!!
I'm definitely one who prefers cute over creepy when it comes to Halloween decorations, but I don't mind a bit of skin crawling fun here and there. This spider swarm pillow fits my style perfectly.
Want to make one of your own? Read on:
Spider Swarm Pillow How-to
fabric for pillow cover: 1/2 yard white fabric
black iron on vinyl
trim (optional)
sewing supplies and vinyl cutting tool
16" X 16" pillow form

1- 16" X 16" square white fabric
2- 12" X 16" rectangles white fabric for back

Using your Cricut Maker, or other cutting machine, cut spiders out of black iron on vinyl- I used 4 different spiders, resized them and turned many of them different directions to create the swarm. One thing I didn't do, was make sure the spiders weren't touching each other- something I would definitely change next time. Using the BrightPad made the weeding process much easier- it takes a while, but it's worth it (I think!) Since you can only cut 12" wide on the mat, I made the swarm fit within the 12" and then cut a few more spiders on another mat to individually scatter around the white edges.

Use EasyPress to adhere vinyl to pillow front. A couple of things to note- when placing your swarm, remember to leave room for your seam allowance (1/4"). I also left a bit of room on the bottom and sides because often pillow forms are squishy and you don't see that part of the pillow and I wanted to make sure you saw ALL the spiders. ;) This project would be a million times faster if you just created the swarm and then pressed it onto a premade pillow cover- like ones you can find at Ikea. But, the envelope closure of this pillow makes it a fairly straightforward sew- which lets you customize both the background fabric and add any trim or embellishments you might want.

Take one of the pillow back pieces and press one 16" side over 1", then again another 1" to create a finished edge. Top stitch down hem. Repeat for second back piece **Tip: If fabric is directional, make sure the sides you create hems on will overlap once placed on pillow back.

add vintage trim to pillow front by basting in place

If adding trim to edge of pillow, baste the trim down on the pillow front
back of pillow with envelope closure
Take your first pillow back piece and lay on the top of the pillow front, right side down. Line up the raw 16" edge with the side of the pillow and line up the top and bottom. Place the second pillow back piece, right side down, on top, lining up the opposite 16" side from the first piece. The two back pieces should overlap. Pin well, especially where the pieces overlap. Sew around all four sides of pillow using a 1/4" seam allowance.
Turn right side out and add a pillow form. Just like that, you have a new pillow!
halloween is much creepier with a spider swarm pillow

Making spider swarm pillow is easy with Cricut Easy Press
Now all that is left is to enjoy your creepy new decoration!
Happy Halloween!!

This is a sponsored conversation written by me on behalf of Cricut. The opinions and text are all mine.

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